Nadia Fauzi

Almost nowhere in Morocco is tourism as strong as in Marrakech. Despite soaring to the top of the world’s bucket list in recent years, Marrakech has retained so much of its own character. It is a fabulous city, full of intrigue and wonder, but it is chaotic and can be intimidating when you visit for the first time, or maybe even the second or third time. Having spent a week in Marrakech exploring, I have put together the must-visit sights, the best places to eat, where to stay, and the top things to do.

We stayed at Riad L’Atelier and booked two rooms: one for my husband and I, and the other for our two children. We booked Number 4 and Number 5 and the staff at our riad (Ayoub, Mohamed and Mustapha) were extremely friendly and helpful, truly going out of their way to make sure we had the best time. I would advice you to stay in one of the many beautiful riads in the Medina on your first trip to Marrakech as many of the luxurious hotels are located further out.

On Jemaa el-Fna, it is common for you to be asked for money as soon as you point your camera at locals. With the excitement, you don’t even notice that you might have someone in front of your lens. So just stay polite and tip. Furthermore, many people in Marrakech are not open to having their picture, or pictures of their products, taken. In fact, I saw several signs in the souks requesting no photography. The main thing is to ask permission to take pictures and be respectful if the answer is no. But please leave the animal shows with snakes and monkeys!

You can arrange for a return transfer from your accommodation with the camp at additional costs. We were picked up from our riad at 11am as we had booked lunch, camel rides, and quad biking for the day. When we arrived at the camp, we were greeted by the staff with fresh Moroccan treats and tea. The decoration around the desert makes you feel like you have gone back into time. They had old cameras, bags, globes, Moroccan lanterns, and Berber rugs throughout the main tent. The staff were very helpful, but also gave us space to enjoy the surroundings in privacy. Our delicious lunch was a traditional Moroccan cuisine in the form of couscous, salad, grilled capsicum, freshly baked bread, chicken skewers, and lamb tagine.

The college was founded during the reign of the Marinid Sultan Abu al-Hassan, taking its name from the neighbouring Ben Youssef Mosque. Initially a modest madrasa, it was later reconstructed during the Saadian Dynasty by Abdallah al-Ghalib, the second Saadian Sultan of Morocco. It became one of the Islamic world’s most prolific centre for learning, serving as a school for almost five centuries until it stopped taking students in 1960. The college boasts some 130 rooms and, at its height, could accommodate as many as 900 students at a time.

French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé bought Jardin Majorelle in 1980 to preserve the vision of its original owner, French landscape painter Jacques Majorelle, and keep it open to the public. The garden, started in 1924, contains a psychedelic desert mirage of 300 plant species from five continents. At its heart lies Majorelle’s electric-blue art deco studio, home to the Musée Berbère, which showcases the rich panorama of Morocco’s indigenous inhabitants through displays of some 600 artefacts. Jardin Majorelle also houses a pretty courtyard cafe, a small book and photography shop, and a chic boutique selling Majorelle blue slippers, and textiles. All areas of Jardin Majorelle are wheelchair and stroller accessible.

After the Koutoubia mosque, we made the short walk through Parc Lalla Hasna to La Mamounia. Nearing the end of the park, the scale of the hotel becomes evident, but you can’t truly appreciate its architectural splendour until you are safely through the security gate. La Mamounia maintains an elegant dress policy in all areas at all times. This means no beach shorts, bikinis on show or midriff peeping out. The gardens are expansive, with tennis courts, immaculate flower beds and lawns, and beautiful terraces to relax in. It’s easy to forget about all the chaos outside the garden walls.

There are two main gardens, the Exotic Garden and the Islamic Garden. The Islamic Garden is divided into four parts with a fountain in the middle. Featuring local flora, there are olive, pomegranate, fig, and citrus trees in this garden. In the Exotic Garden, you will see colourful plants and bushes from 5 different continents. The composition of the colours and shades is amazing.

If you want to have a full-on Marrakech experience, spend most of your time in the lively Medina. The most beautiful part of the Medina is its maze of narrow streets that transport you back in time. Throw your map in the garbage and lose yourself in the excitement, while dodging mopeds, donkeys, and carts. Admire the colours of the walls and buildings, the smell of the food and spices, and speak to friendly locals. Most unique of all is the Adhan / Azan (the Islamic call to prayer recited by a muezzin at prescribed times of the day) coming from the many mosques nearby echoing the narrow streets. To experience this high up, head to one of the many rooftop cafes.

To get help navigating, the best people to ask are the shopkeepers or those who are working in the souk. They will point you in the right direction usually without wanting anything in return. Irwan has had to ask for directions from shopkeepers on our first day to get to an ATM and we have been warned by the staff at the riad to be careful with strangers pretending to give directions. We always try to walk with purpose and try not to look lost, even when we are. That way someone is less likely to try and take advantage of our situation. As a last resort, Google Maps to the rescue!

Haggling is a national sport in Morocco and I don’t want to say that everyone is trying to rip you off, but most will give it a good go. A lot of shops sell the same stuff, so you can definitely get a good price if you shop around and aren’t too hasty in your purchases. Irwan did the bargaining for me and he’d usually start at a third or a quarter of the first price. Do not feel bad about bargaining, it is part of the culture if done politely. Do not bargain if you don’t intend on buying, as it is considered rude. If you get invited for tea inside, you are expected to buy something even if it is small. It is certainly ok to accept, but you should buy something out of respect.

Nomad: We opted for lunch here on the day we spent exploring the souks. It is right in the heart of the main square and the perfect location to sit out on the roof. Also great for snapping an Instagram! The restaurant is super busy so I would recommend booking ahead if you want to be seated on the rooftop. You’ll have views overlooking the Medina with the Atlas mountain in the background. We ordered the fish, lamb chops, and lamb burger and they were delicious!

+61: +61’s lunch menu is quintessentially Australian: ingredients are as fresh as they can get with the fruits and vegetables sourced from local farmers. Bread, pasta, cheese, and yoghurt are made fresh in-house every day. The meals are inspired by various different cultures, reflecting the multiculturalism of Australia. The menu is subject to seasonal changes, so the meals are always perfectly suited to the season. We had the fried chicken, green salad, steak sandwich, chicken schnitzel, and fish of the day shared amongst the four of us.

L’Mida: We ate here on our last day in Marrakech and it was the most average food we had eaten on our trip. The menu was also rather limited. However, my impression is perhaps unique because L’mida was packed with people by the time we left.

Le Bar Majorelle: Le Bar Majorelle is a colourful place in La Mamounia that takes its name from the famous Jacques Majorelle, French orientalist painter, and Marrakech lover. With Pierre Hermé at the controls, it has the flavour of a refined bistro and a menu of small dishes to share. It is also the only place I’ve seen alcohol and pork served. We whiled away the afternoon eating club sandwich and cakes in the shade of the picturesque and historic pavilion.

Glovo: There were a few evenings when the kids were tired and we ordered food via the Glovo app. You need to download the app, register for an account, and have a local mobile number (we used one of the riad’s staff’s mobile number). Delivery charge is very reasonable and food arrived within 20-30 minutes.

ATM / cash: We usually use Monzo / Revolut (BigPay equivalent) when we travel as the rates are spot on. In Morocco, you will be charged by the local banks when you withdraw cash in addition to the ATM fee from your own bank (not applicable to Monzo, Revolut, BigPay and the likes). As the Moroccan Dirham (MAD) is a closed currency, you can only get it in Morocco. Also, the ATM dispenses a maximum of MAD2000 (RM850 / £160) per transaction and you can withdraw up to three times per day. You can also change your money at the airport as the banks and foreign currency exchange counters after Customs offer very competitive rates. Bear in mind that unless you’re eating in upmarket restaurants or shopping in fancy boutiques, it is cash, not card, that reigns supreme.

Clothing: As far as Muslim countries go, Morocco is relatively relaxed, but you will still draw an awful lot of unpleasant and unwanted attention should you choose to venture out in anything too revealing. So, keep the swimwear for the riad pool and stick with something that at least goes beyond your knees, and covers your shoulders and chest when exploring the streets.

Pickpockets: The streets are packed, it’s a big city, and poverty (to an extent) is an issue. Just be smart, and you’ll be fine. Oh, and be sure to have a decent travel insurance.

How to get around Marrakech: For the vast majority of your time in Marrakech, your two feet will be enough, especially as many of the best things to do in Marrakech are in the car-free, labyrinthine streets of the Medina where you have no choice but to walk! For any attractions outside of the city centre, I’d recommend getting a taxi. You can find taxi ranks outside of the Medina walls, or alternatively we got the staff at the riad to arrange one for us. We saved the driver’s number and called him whenever we needed a ride outside of the Medina. On the other hand, you could also be part of Africa’s first bike-sharing movement and grab a pair of wheels from Medina Bike. Day passes cost MAD50 and allow three hours worth of rides for a 24 hour period. You can find full details on the service here.

Language: Just like in the rest of Morocco, Marrakech’s main language is Arabic. However, the Berbers, which is the largest ethnic group in the city, still speak their own version of an Arabic dialect. Due to extensive French influences in the region, French also functions as a central language. As a tourist, relying on French over English would be the safest bet, seeing as many locals don’t speak fluent English, unless you’re in the main tourist areas. If all else fails, there’s Google Translate, which I have used on occasions, to get my points across in Essaouira.

Travelling with children: Morocco is generally a very family-centric country. Most homes in Morocco have large families and kids are loved dearly wherever you go. Children also often tend to break the ice easily with locals, leading to warm conversations and experiencing a better understanding of their culture. Another advantage of travelling with children to Morocco is that most scammers will usually stay away from you.

However, due to its bustling markets, sounds and sights, Marrakech might be a little overwhelming for children. It is important to slow down whilst exploring Marrakech with children and not rush through your day. Take it easy from noon until 4pm and keep them adequately covered and hydrated.

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One of my best tips for Marrakech is to just go with the flow. It is good to have a bit of a plan for Marrakech and book some things in advance (good restaurants, tours etc) but you should leave a bit of time to just let Marrakech happen; to wander, to get a bit lost, and let the chaos unfold around you.

Let me know in the comment section below if I have missed anything out!